Bumpers

 

bulletOlympic Rock Bumpers with Receivers (front and rear) ($175 each, Apr 98):

 

Ease of Installation: More Trouble Than I Expected
Product Usefulness: Real Glad I Have Them

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The 2" receiver was a great invention.  There are tons of accessories that fit into them, such as bicycle carriers, storage racks, and trailer hitches, to name a few.  I wanted receivers in both front and back.  Shortly after purchasing my Jeep, I immediately installed a frame-mounted receiver in the rear.  The problem was, it hung too low.  The solution was a rear bumper with an integrated receiver.  I chose the Olympic Rock Bumpers.   As best I can remember, at the time, they were the only front and rear matched set, both with receivers.  They were also priced less than most of the other bumper sets on the market at the time.  One feature that the Olympic rear bumper didn't have was a swing-out tire carrier.  But since I wasn't carrying a huge spare tire, I decided I didn't need that feature. 

For the most part, both bumpers installed with little or no problems.  However, the receiver on the inside of the front bumper hit the cross-tube between the two frame rails.  I simple pounded in the cross tube a little with my sledge hammer (that was easier then trying to grind down the receiver which was embedded inside the bumper).   After that, the bumper mounted easily using existing holes and stock hardware from the stock front bumper.

The rear bumper took considerably longer to install.  Four of the ten bolts used to secure the bumper are behind the gas tank!  I used my floor jack to support the tank, removed the mounting hardware, then lowered the tank just enough to get my socket wrench in.   After that, it was easy to remove the old bumper, install the new one, and raise the gas tank back into place. 

Here are some shots of the front and rear bumpers after installation (spare tire removed for a clearer view).  I realize that you can't really see much of the front bumper; sorry.  As for the rear, note the two ends of the bumper; this picture was taken after I did the modification for the trail rack.

   

For more information about the Olympic rock bumpers and other related products, visit their web site at www.4x4products.com.

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bulletHomemade Rear Bumper with Swing-Out Spare Tire, Jerry Can, Hi-Lift, & Cargo Rack System ($200, May 01):

 

Ease of Installation: More Trouble Than I Expected
Product Usefulness: Real Glad I Have It

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Three years prior, I purchased my Olympic Rock Bumpers (above).  Then I decided I needed additional cargo space; so a few months later, I removed the rear bumper, beefed it up, and built my homemade trail rack.  In the Summer of 2000, after my S2K Build-Up (which included larger tires and a new wheel bolt patters), I needed a new spare tire mount.  Since I also wanted to be able to carry some extra gasoline and/or water, and realizing that would be too much weight on the tailgate, I purchased a Tomken Swing-Out Spare Tire Carrier & Dual Jerry Can Mount.  This piecemealed system has served me extremely well over the past few years!  But the more I modify my Jeep, the more I learn that I can usually build what I need better, and certainly much cheaper, than what I can buy!  With that thought in mind, I took on this for my latest project.  

During the planning phase, which lasted several months, I made a list of all the things I didn't like about my current set up, and ways I could make it better.  For example: the trail rack was permanently fixed to the rear bumper, which made it hard for me to access my trunk, my Hi-Lift, and my rear window without always having to duck underneath the rack.  And the Tomken addition, with its threaded knob to secure the swing-out carrier, only aggravated this situation.  The entire system also stuck out way too far back, and hung too low.  I would often find myself hitting the receiver, and then the swing-out carrier, and finally the spare tire itself, while descending tall ledges.  My new system would have to be "tucked in" significantly.  I looked at the numerous systems on the market and incorporated all the "good" things into my design.  I probably could have purchased a system that would have met my needs, but it would have cost me at least a thousand dollars . . . or more!  As you can see in the title line, I spent only about $200 on mine (plus, of course, a whole bunch of time)!

What follows is a pictorial representation of my new system.  As always, click on any of the pictures for a larger view, then "back" on your browser to return here.

The bumper is 2" x  4" x  3/16".  Welded to the frame side of the bumper are 4 pieces of 2" x  3/16" channel, each with two 1/2-inch Grade 8 bolts welded in.  These eight bolts secure the bumper to the frame. 

The vertical pieces are 2" x  2" x  1/8", welded to the bumper at the bottom and bolted at the top to 6-inch "L" braces, which are bolted to the tub.  The bumper was notched to accommodate the flush-mounted 2-inch receiver.  The hitch pin is accessible between the frame and the bumper.

The "gate" is 1.25" x  1.25" x  1/8".  It's hinged on the right side with two 7-inch greasable barrel hinges, which I purchased from a local steel yard in town; they were $14 each.   Since the gate closes to within 2 inches of the tub, the factory tail lights had to be removed.  Although not shown in this picture, the top and middle horizontal frame members close onto the rubber bumpers for the factory spare tire mount.

The vertical frame members for the spare tire, jerry can, and Hi-Lift are added, as well as mounting locations for new tail and backup lights.  A more compact cargo rack sits on top. The 4 rubber bumpers are installed and spaced laterally with fender washers.  I temporarily used a couple of inexpensive reflectors to cover the holes left by the factory tail lights.

First I sealed the whole thing with POR-15, then top coated it with Rust-Oleum Hammered Metal Finish.  For a more "tucked-in" unit, I decided to mount only one jerry can instead of two.  The two stop/turn lights are on each side, just under the cargo rack.  The two small clear lights on each side at the bottom are my back-up lights.  There's also a light above the license plate.  I ended up using nothing more than a heavy-duty sliding bolt for the latch.  And it doesn't rattle!  The wiring harness for the stop/turn and back-up lights plugs into the Jeep via a 6-pin weatherproof connector.  Since the cargo rack now opens with the rest of the unit, I have super easy access to my trunk, rear window, and my Hi-Lift!

Final Note: While designing my rear bumper system, I had to decide what size steel to use so as to balance strength vs. weight.  Although my system is extremely strong, I was concerned that it might be excessively heavy.  Unfortunately, I didn't weigh it prior to final installation.  But as best as I can tell, it isn't any heavier than my old set up.  However, I can still open/close the gate with a good 200 pounds loaded on the cargo rack (hopefully, I'll never need that much capacity).

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