|
 | Olympic Rock Bumpers with
Receivers (front and rear) ($175 each, Apr 98): |
| Ease of Installation: |
More Trouble Than I Expected |
| Product Usefulness: |
Real Glad I Have Them |
Click on pictures for larger view, then "back"
on your browser to return here.
The 2" receiver was a great invention. There are tons of accessories that
fit into them, such as bicycle carriers, storage racks, and trailer hitches, to name a
few. I wanted receivers in both front and back. Shortly after purchasing my
Jeep, I immediately installed a frame-mounted receiver in the rear. The problem was,
it hung too low. The solution was a rear bumper with an integrated receiver. I
chose the Olympic Rock Bumpers. As best I can remember, at the time, they were
the only front and rear matched set, both with receivers. They were also priced less
than most of the other bumper sets on the market at the time. One feature that the
Olympic rear bumper didn't have was a swing-out tire carrier. But since I wasn't
carrying a huge spare tire, I decided I didn't need that feature.
For the most part, both bumpers installed with little or no problems. However,
the receiver on the inside of the front bumper hit the cross-tube between the two frame
rails. I simple pounded in the cross tube a little with my sledge hammer (that was
easier then trying to grind down the receiver which was embedded inside the bumper).
After that, the bumper mounted easily using existing holes and stock hardware from
the stock front bumper.
The rear bumper took considerably longer to install. Four of the ten bolts used
to secure the bumper are behind the gas tank! I used my floor jack to support the
tank, removed the mounting hardware, then lowered the tank just enough to get my socket
wrench in. After that, it was easy to remove the old bumper, install the new
one, and raise the gas tank back into place.
Here are some shots of the front and rear bumpers after installation (spare tire
removed for a clearer view). I realize that you can't really see much of the front
bumper; sorry. As for the rear, note the two ends of the bumper; this picture was
taken after I did the modification for the trail
rack.

For more information about the Olympic rock bumpers and other related
products, visit their web site at www.4x4products.com.

| Ease of Installation: |
More Trouble Than I Expected |
| Product Usefulness: |
Real Glad I Have It |
Click on pictures for larger view, then "back"
on your browser to return here.
Three years prior, I purchased my Olympic Rock Bumpers (above). Then
I decided I needed additional cargo space; so a few months later, I removed
the rear bumper, beefed it up, and built my homemade
trail rack. In the Summer of 2000, after my S2K
Build-Up (which included larger tires and a new wheel bolt patters), I
needed a new spare tire mount. Since I also wanted to be able to carry
some extra gasoline and/or water, and realizing that would be too much weight
on the tailgate, I purchased a Tomken Swing-Out
Spare Tire Carrier & Dual Jerry Can Mount. This piecemealed
system has served me extremely well over the past few years! But the
more I modify my Jeep, the more I learn that I can usually build
what I need better, and certainly much cheaper, than what I can buy!
With that thought in mind, I took on this for my latest project.
During the planning phase, which lasted several months, I made a list of
all the things I didn't like about my current set up, and ways I could make it
better. For example: the trail rack was permanently fixed to the rear
bumper, which made it hard for me to access my trunk, my Hi-Lift, and my rear
window without always having to duck underneath the rack. And the Tomken
addition, with its threaded knob to secure the swing-out carrier, only aggravated
this situation. The entire system also stuck out way too far back, and
hung too low. I would often find myself hitting the receiver, and then
the swing-out carrier, and finally the spare tire itself, while descending
tall ledges. My new system would have to be "tucked in"
significantly. I looked at the numerous systems on the market and
incorporated all the "good" things into my design. I probably
could have purchased a system that would have met my needs, but it would have
cost me at least a thousand dollars . . . or more! As you can see
in the title line, I spent only about $200 on mine (plus, of course, a whole
bunch of time)!
What follows is a pictorial representation of my new system. As
always, click on any of the pictures for a larger view, then "back" on your
browser to return here.
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The bumper is 2" x 4" x
3/16". Welded to the frame side of the bumper are 4 pieces of
2" x 3/16" channel, each with two 1/2-inch Grade 8 bolts
welded in. These eight bolts secure the bumper to the frame. |
The vertical pieces are 2" x
2" x 1/8", welded to the bumper at the bottom and bolted
at the top to 6-inch "L" braces, which are bolted to the
tub. The bumper was notched to accommodate the flush-mounted 2-inch
receiver. The hitch pin is accessible between the frame and the
bumper. |

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| The "gate" is 1.25" x
1.25" x 1/8". It's hinged on the right side with
two 7-inch greasable barrel hinges, which I purchased from a local steel
yard in town; they were $14 each. |
Since the gate closes to within 2 inches of
the tub, the factory tail lights had to be removed. Although not
shown in this picture, the top and middle horizontal frame members close
onto the rubber bumpers for the factory spare tire mount. |

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| The vertical frame members for the spare
tire, jerry can, and Hi-Lift are added, as well as mounting locations
for new tail and backup lights. A more compact cargo rack sits on
top. |
The 4 rubber bumpers are installed and
spaced laterally with fender washers. I temporarily used a couple
of inexpensive reflectors to cover the holes left by the factory tail
lights. |

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| First I sealed the whole thing with POR-15,
then top coated it with Rust-Oleum Hammered Metal Finish. For a
more "tucked-in" unit, I decided to mount only one jerry can
instead of two. The two stop/turn lights are on each side, just
under the cargo rack. The two small clear lights on each side at
the bottom are my back-up lights. There's also a light above the
license plate. |
I ended up using nothing more than a
heavy-duty sliding bolt for the latch. And it doesn't
rattle! The wiring harness for the stop/turn and back-up lights
plugs into the Jeep via a 6-pin weatherproof connector. Since the
cargo rack now opens with the rest of the unit, I have super easy access
to my trunk, rear window, and my Hi-Lift! |
Final Note: While designing my rear bumper system, I
had to decide what size steel to use so as to balance strength vs.
weight. Although my system is extremely strong, I was concerned that it
might be excessively heavy. Unfortunately, I didn't weigh it prior to
final installation. But as best as I can tell, it isn't any heavier than
my old set up. However, I can still open/close the gate with a good 200
pounds loaded on the cargo rack (hopefully, I'll never need that
much capacity).

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