Along with your air lockers, you also get the required solenoids, switches,
and switch covers. The wiring harness, however, comes as part of
the ARB compressor. And even though I wasn't going to purchase the
compressor, I was able to purchase the wiring harness separately for $20
directly from ARB U.S.A. The new ARB
switches are really slick; they snap right into the 3-switch bezel to the left
of the ashtray in the TJ. So I removed the 3 Cole Hersee toggle switches that
I had installed there a few months ago and replaced them with the new ARB
switches. The compressor master switch is now in the center, the front locker
on the left, and the rear locker on the right ("right/rear" is how I
remember the location). The switch/light combo that I previously installed for
the compressor, in my Tuffy center console, was replaced with a couple of
lighted toggle switches, which power a set of side lights for night
rides. Here are the new ARB switches.

Each switch has 5 leads on the back (times 3 switches); that’s 15 wire
leads for me to have to figure out. That’s exactly why I chose to purchase
the ARB wiring harness. The $20 bucks I paid for it was WELL worth it!! I was
able to plug in the 15 switch leads in a matter of seconds. The compressor
master switch is powered by one of the switched circuits in my Painless
Wiring Circuit Isolator. Another wire from the ARB harness goes to
one of your dash lights. The rest of the connections are under the hood. Two
"Tee" connectors simply plug into the two solenoids (from the left
and right ARB switches). The output wire from the master switch runs to my
pressure switch, which in turn, powers the compressor. After connecting the
ground, I cut off the few remaining unused wires (which would have connected
to the ARB compressor and pressure switch).
Click
here to view my York-to-ARB electrical wiring diagram
The next step was to create a pressure regulator/manifold to control the
amount of air flowing to the lockers, and to plumb it into my York system. I
made up a unit similar to Harry Brosofsky"s, which includes a pressure
regulator, 0-160 psi pressure gauge, 100 psi pop safety valve, and the two ARB
solenoids, all connected with various fittings (pictured on the left below). Using a pipe strap and a
couple of sheet metal screws, I mounted the manifold to the ABS tray
underneath the brake master cylinder. On the output end of my air tank, I
added a "Tee" fitting and a piece of 3/8" air hose to power the
manifold. Note the additional in-line filter I've installed to
supplement the oil and water separators that keep the York system clean
(pictured on the right below). Lastly, I hooked up the blue plastic air
hoses from the diffs to the solenoids. I was originally going to
purchase a set of stainless braided air lines from JB
Conversions, but while they were on back order, I changed my mind. I
decided that if a rock or other object was going to break something, I'd
rather it rip out a cheap plastic air line instead of either the fittings in
my diffs or my solenoids!


To Conclude my S2K Build-Up Tour