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| Ease of Installation: |
More Trouble Than I Expected |
| Product Usefulness: |
Couldn't Live Without It! |
I realize that 31" tires will fit under a TJ without a lift; but only for on-road
use. On the trail, however, they will rub on the fenders, especially if the
sway bar is disconnected. I wanted to make sure the tires would clear all frame and
body parts under full articulation and/or turn situations. On the other hand, I
wanted only enough lift to achieve that goal and to avoid having to made
additional modifications, such as installing a new drop pitman arm or extended brake
lines. I chose the Explorer Pro Comp 2" lift, which came with four new coil
springs and four ES3000 shocks. I chose this kit because the price was right, it
lifted my Jeep enough to fit the 31" tires for trail use, and it claimed a 15%
increase in articulation.
I installed the lift kit one Saturday in my garage, mostly by myself, using basic
hand tools (socket wrenches, etc) and my factory service manual. The only
"specialty tool" I purchased for this project was a set of (two) coil spring
compressors, which I got from J.C. Whitney for
$12, plus shipping.
The rear looked easier, so I started there. With my hydraulic floor jack placed
under the rear pumpkin, I lifted the rear end, supported the frame with jack stands, and
removed the tires. Then I removed the rear shocks (two bolts at the top, one nut
& bolt at the bottom of each shock) and disconnected the rear track bar at the axle
(one nut & bolt). I lowered the axle until the rear springs were free and
removed them. Since the new springs are taller than the stock springs, using my
spring compressors to slightly compress the new springs made them easier to install.
I raised the axle and reconnected the track bar (this took two people; with both feet
pushing on the side of the frame, I pulled the axle sideways towards me while my wife
installed the bolt). Next I installed the sleeves in the shock bushings (hair spray
makes a great lubricant and won't harm the rubber bushings), then installed the new
shocks. Bolted the tires back on and the rear end was finished. It took about
an hour and a half.
The front end took over twice as long! After supporting the front end with jack
stands and removing the tires, I disconnected the sway bar and the front drive shaft.
At first I was afraid to mess with the drive shaft, but after removing the four small bolts
from the U-joint housing, the slip yoke allows you to compress the drive shaft and pull it
out of the way of the front axle. It's really no big deal. Next I removed the
front shocks (two nuts & bolts on the bottom, one nut on the top of each shock).
The top bolts are accessible from inside the engine compartment, under the hood. For
the passenger side, you have to remove the air cleaner assembly (three screws inside of
the box). The front coil springs have a retaining bolt at the bottom which must be
removed to release the spring. Lowering the front axle with my floor jack, the front
springs were loose, but I couldn't get them out without using the spring
compressors. I learned that it is much easier to install the spring compressors
while the springs were already compressed (i.e., before lowering the axle), then slowly
lower the axle. The springs
came right out. The new, taller springs had to be compressed considerably in order
to install them. After they were in place, I raised the axle to compress the new
springs so that I wouldn't have to unscrew the spring compressors as far. Next
I installed the new shocks, reconnected the drive shaft, and prepared to install my new
sway bar quick disconnects. The picture to the left shows the new driver's side front
spring and shock. Actually, this picture was taken after the spacers were
installed (see Part 2 of this article below). The spacer is the thick black
"puck" at the top of the coil spring.
The whole kit took approximately 5 - 6 hours for me to install. It probably would
go much faster with two people. The ride is now quite a bit more harsh
than stock. The actual lift I got from the Pro
Comp lift was 2 inches up front, but only 1.25 inches at the rear. With my
sway bar disconnected, my ramp travel index (RTI) at the Jun 98 Daniel Boone Jeep Jamboree was
approximately 800 (double that of a stock TJ). Boy, was I ever proud of the Trail
Jeep now!
For more information about the Explorer Pro Comp 2" lift kit and other related
products, visit their web site at www.explorerprocomp.com

| Ease of Installation: |
More Trouble Than I Expected |
| Product Usefulness: |
Real Glad I Have Them |
This small, inexpensive modification has made the biggest improvement to my TJ's trail
performance than any other single product. Simply disconnecting the sway bar
significantly
increases your Jeep's flexibility (articulation). I chose the Rubicon Express quick
disconnects for their 3-piece design. The top and bottom parts permanently bolt to
the sway bar and the front axle, respectively. The center piece is secured to the
upper and lower brackets using two linchpins each. When disconnected, the center
piece removes completely, so there are no dangling parts to secure. Another
advantage of this system is the center tube comes in different lengths. So if you
originally install a set on your unlifted Jeep, then later decide to install a lift kit,
you won't have to purchase a whole new set of quick disconnects, only new (longer)
center tubes! One problem I've encountered with the design of the RE quick
disconnects, is with the top bracket (which permanently mounts to each end of the
sway bar. They are rather large, and at full turn and axle flex, the tires hit the
brackets. For a while, I permanently removed the entire sway bar altogether.
With the stiffer Pro Comp springs and the ES3000s, I really couldn't tell much difference
whether the sway bar is connected or not! But since installing the RS9000s, I've had
to reinstall it.
The left picture below shows the sway bar connected for highway use. The
sway bar in the right picture, of course, is disconnected. When disconnected, you can pivot
the sway bar up and down. In the picture on the right, I've pulled it down so you can
see both ends of the quick disconnects. During actual use, however, I push the
sway bar up into the fender well.

For more information about the Rubicon Express sway bar quick disconnects and other
related suspension products, visit their web site at www.rubiconexpress.com

| Ease of Installation: |
Not Too Bad |
| Product Usefulness: |
Real Glad I Have It |
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Within four months after installing the Pro Comp lift, I had added quite a bit of extra
weight to my rig: an XD9000i winch, Hi-Lift jack, Olympic rock bumpers (front & rear),
Tomken gas tank skid plate, Tuffy security drawer, and homemade trail rack. As a
result of the additional weight, my 2 inch lift has "sunk" down to about
one-half inch!
To regain my height, I installed a set of four Teraflex 1.25" coil spring spacers
which I purchased from Macromotive
in
Arizona. The spring spacers replaced the existing rubber spacers at the top of each
spring seat. Since you need to remove the springs to install the spacers, the
procedure was exactly the same as installation of the Pro Comp kit.
Since I knew what I was doing this time, installation didn't take quite as long.
Once done, the spring spacers gave me an additional lift of 1.25 inches up front and 2
inches at the rear. The total final actual lift (Pro Comp springs, minus settling and
added weight, plus spring spacers) is now just about 2 inches front and rear.
Perfect! The ride is a little firmer again, but not as bad as when the springs were
new. I haven't had an opportunity to recheck my RTI to see if the new spacers made
any difference; I don't think it did. Below is a close-up of the driver's side front
spacer at the top of the Pro Comp spring.

For more information about the Teraflex 1.25" coil spring spacers and other
related products, visit their web site at www.teraflx.com

| Ease of Installation: |
More Trouble Than I Expected |
| Product Usefulness: |
Don't Know How I Survived Without Them! |
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Here I am, exactly one year after installing the original Pro Comp lift kit, still
fiddling with my suspension set-up! Now, when anyone asks what kind of lift kit I
have, I tell them it's the new "Rancho Pro Flex"!
Anyway, since my TJ is my daily driver, which means I use it on road much more than off,
good street manners are very important to me. With the stiffer-than-stock Pro Comp
springs, coupled with the ES3000s, my TJ rode more like a YJ! ;-) The RS9000s
are amazing! My TJ now rides more like my wife's Caravan than a Jeep! And I
really like the convenience of the in-cab remote control. Here's everything you get
with the system:

Rancho only sells two configurations of the RS9000 for the TJ: for a stock
vehicle, and for a vehicle with a Rancho 2½-inch lift. Therefore, I presume that you could
not use RS9000s on your TJ if you had a Rubicon Express 4.5" lift. Anyway,
several people have asked me what are the correct part numbers for each configuration.
So I called Rancho Tech Support. For a stock TJ, the correct P/N is RS9239
for the front and RS9240 for the rear. For a TJ with a Rancho 2½-inch lift, it's
P/N RS9239 for the front (same as for the stock TJ) and RS9241 for the rear. I, of
course, am using the latter on my rig.
Installation of the shocks was very straight forward. Remove the old ones and
install the new. First, however, it makes installation of the air hoses for the remote
control easier if you remove the manual adjustment valves from each shock and install the
new pressure fittings before you install the shocks. For the fronts, I positioned the
shocks so that the air hoses faced the center of the Jeep. For the rears, the hoses
face forward. That seems to afford the most protection from possible trail damage.
Installation
of the remote control system took quite a bit longer than the shocks. Carefully following
the instructions, I installed the control panel inside the Jeep first. I had to
trim the far front end of the center floor console to make way for the plumbing and
electrical connections behind the gauges. Locating the control panel here cost my
just a little storage space, but I couldn't find a more desirable location to mount
it.
Next I
installed the air compressor under the hood, on top of the driver's side wheel well, just
behind the windshield washer reservoir. I wanted it as high as possible to help keep
it clean and dry. The electrical connections were next; they were pretty easy.
Wiring goes from the fuse panel, to the switch on the control panel, to the compressor,
then to vehicle ground. The air lines, on the other hand, were quite complex. With
no less than 20 connections, that's a lot of opportunity for leaks! Actually, the pressure
fittings are quite well designed. The only problems I had with leaks were between
the pressure fittings and the shocks themselves. Because of the pressure
distribution manifolds (located above and to the left of the brake fluid reservoir), a
leak anywhere in either system renders that whole system useless. I had a leak on
one front shock and one rear shock. So you can imagine my disappointment when I pumped
everything up for the first time, the whole thing went flat in a matter of seconds! But a
generous amount of soap solution quickly revealed the problem areas. I think I have
everything fixed now. So far, so good.
As for the ride on the street? One word: incredible!
With the shocks on setting # 1, the Jeep literally floats
over the bumps now! They are equally impressive on the trail. Set at # 5, my
tail end no longer comes crashing down after descending ledges, for example.
Product Update (March 2002): I've
used this setup for 3 years now and wouldn't consider any other shocks.
I love the RS9000s and the ability to adjust the firmness from inside the
cab. A couple of things I learned about this system over the
years. The only place they've ever leaked on me was where the
"L" fittings attach to the shock bodies. To solve this
problem, I simply used a thin layer of RTV Silicone sealer instead of the
rubber o-ring. The other problem is that, on the rear shocks, I kept
breaking those same little "L" fittings on the rocks! The
shock "cans" are supposed to be mounted downward, and there's not
enough room to position the "L" fittings towards the axle. So
they must be mounted towards the rear, where they are extremely
vulnerable. I solved this problem by building some shock skids and
welding them to the shock mounts on the rear axle.
For more information about Rancho RS9000 shocks and other related products, visit their
web site at www.gorancho.com

| Ease of Installation: |
Piece of Cake |
| Product Usefulness: |
Couldn't Live Without Them |
After
running my RE quick discos for over two years, they were ready to be
replaced. As you can see from the pictures above, there's a lot of
metal-to-metal contact in the RE design, which makes them prone to wear.
They also got to be terribly noisy over time. So when it came time to
replace them, I looked for a product with features that would solve the
shortcomings of the RE units. Teraflex's New-Generation Quick
Disconnects were just the thing. There's no metal-to-metal contact
anywhere. This, coupled with greasable joints at both ends, result in extremely quiet operation.
The Teraflex units also
feature a unique storage system while they are disconnected.
Below left is a picture of the disconnects in their "stowed" position.
As you already know, disconnecting the sway bar greatly
increases axle flex (specifically droop). Therefore, as a final
"nice" touch to this product, Tera includes in the kit a pair of
brake line relocation brackets! Below center is the stock brake line
bracket. Below right is the brake line extention included in the Tera
kit. As you can see, the brake line is lowered a good inch. This
is a first class product at a reasonable price! I highly
recommend it!!

For more information about the Teraflex New-Generation Quick Disconnects and other
related suspension products, visit their web site at www.teraflx.com


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