Air Locker Solenoid Assembly Replacement:  This is more of an alternate parts source rather than a tech tip, but this seemed the best place to put it.  Some time ago, I ran across a post on one of the on-line bulletin boards regarding an alternate source for ARB's $50 solenoid assemblies (each air locker uses one solenoid assembly).  These assemblies consist of the little cube-shaped aluminum valves, with the black plastic electrical coil secured to the valve's vent tube.  When you engage your air locker via the electrical switch inside your cab, the coil opens the valve and allows pressurized air into the differential to engage the locker.  When you turn the switch off, the valve closes, releases the pressure, and disengages the locker.  This pressure release is what creates that really cool hissing sound whenever you turn off your air lockers!  :o)   Well, as I understand it, these valves are very sensitive to dirt.  Mine are mounted on that little tray just under (and to the outside of) the master brake cylinder under the hood.  Subjected to an incredible amount of dirt and dust, they recently started leaking.  I know this, because after ruling out all other possible trouble spots, my air tank would be empty the next morning.  I prolly could have isolated the one bad solenoid valve, but after finding this alternate source, I decided that I would replace both.  Two ARB solenoid assemblies would have cost me $100, plus shipping--ouch!  However, Mac Valves, Inc. of Wixom, MI sells a similar assembly that will work just as well, and they go for . . . .  get this . . . only $17 each!  The part number is 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA.   I purchased mine from Mac Valves' southwest distributor; Fiero Fluid Power, Inc. of Arvada, CO.  Their toll-free number is 1-800-638-0920.  Pictured on the left (from left to right) are the Mac Valve and ARB assemblies, respectively.  In addition to removing the "air in" and "air out" fittings from your ARB assemblies, you will also have to cut off the wiring harness and solder it to the Mac Valve wires (it doesn't matter which wire goes to which).  Finally, I purchased a little muffler for the release port to protect it from dirt.  Actual tests have proved to me that the Mac Valves work just as well as the ARB assemblies; however, the cool pressure release "hiss" isn't nearly as pronounced!  :o(  Oh, well. 

 Headlights Left-On Reminder:  For all of you doorless Jeepin freaks out there (like me), you know that when you remove your factory Jeep doors (or when you install a set of soft doors), you have to defeat the door buttons by pulling fuse #4 (bottom right socket in a '97 TJ; you can see in the photo that mine is removed).  This, of course, is the circuit that turns on and off the dome light whenever you open or close your doors.  It's also the circuit that sets off the buzzer that reminds you that you've left your headlights on after you've turned the ignition off!  For on-road use, I like driving with my headlights on most all the time.  Problem is, I often forget to turn them off during daytime use.  But no longer!  I recently learned about a new product, manufactured by 3M, called a "Headlights Left-On Reminder Unit" (3M part no. 03796).  I purchased it at Wal-Mart, where they sell replacement auto light bulbs, for around 7 bucks.  It's a tiny little electronic devise that sounds if your headlights or parking lights are on, while your ignition is off.  It requires no tools or wiring, and takes about 5 minutes to install (this is my type of product)! You simply insert the two wires into two of the fuses behind your glove box, attach the unit using the double-sided foam tape, and you're done!  It couldn't be easier!  No way I'll ever forget to turn my lights off now!

No More Rust!:  If you want to completely eliminate any chance of your stuff rusting, you have got to try POR-15, by Restomotive Laboratories!  It is unlike any other paint or coating you may have used in the past.  POR-15 is a rust-preventive paint designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces.  It dries to a rock-hard finish that won't chip, crack, or peel.  It prevents rust from (re)occurring by protecting the metal from exposure to moisture.  I've used it numerous times on my Jeep, mainly on the skid plates that I've built.  And despite repeated abuse from some really nasty southwestern rocks, I've barely been able to scratch the finish.  You can even add a top coat of your favorite color spray paint directly on top of POR-15.  It's relatively expensive (around $20 for a pint) and the steel requires special preparation before you can paint it, but it is totally worth the added expense and effort!  I use POR-15 for everything that I build out of steel, whether it be for my Jeep or otherwise.  This is really great stuff!!

Oil Drain Valve:  If you've read my Skid Plates Page, you already know that changing the oil in a TJ (with an oil pan skid plate installed) creates a HUGE mess!  Well, I found the perfect solution!  The "Engine Oil Drain Valve", by Fumoto Engineering of America, installs in place of your engine oil drain plug.  Once installed, just lift the lever of the solid brass ball valve and give it a quarter turn to drain your oil.  But it's not simply the drain valve itself that solves the mess problem.  More specifically, it's the "N-Series" Drain Valve, which has a nipple on the end that will accept a hose to allow draining of the oil directly into your oil collection container!  The correct part number for both the 2.5L and 4.0L engines (1992-present) is F-101N, and it costs only $25.95, plus $3 shipping.  To be honest, I would have paid double that had I been able to find this gadget 3 years ago!  I would have easily saved that much in paper towels, rags, and kitty litter cleaning up the mess every time I changed the oil.  For more information on the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve, check out their web site at www.fumotovalve.com.  

Welding:  I was thinking about devoting a separate page to this topic.  But I don't really have a whole lot to say about it.   Just that, of all the classes/courses/training I've taken during my life, the 8-week basic MIG welding class that I took in the Spring of '98 at my local Community College has given me the most personal satisfaction of all!  I've made several accessories for my Jeep (some of which are not available otherwise) that not only saved me lots of money; but I get tons of compliments on my handiwork!  That really makes me feel good!  At first, I just rented the MIG welder at the military base Auto Skills Center ($3/hr).   But after realizing how useful and fun welding could be as a hobby, I decided to purchase my own portable wire feed welder (pictured to the left), which I just LOVE!  It's a Century Model 155 GL (P/N: 164723-B945), which I purchased from Northern Tool & Equipment Co., 1-800-556-7885, for $449.99.   I also bought the MIG Gas Conversion Kit (P/N: 164725-B945) for $89.99 (also from Northern) and a small MIG gas bottle (from my local welding supply store) for $90.00.   Some of my many projects include a trail rack, add-a-trunk, hi-lift jack mounts, steering box skid plate, modified oil pan skid plate, winch mounting plate, belly-up/flat t-case skid plate, and a rear bumber/tire carrier/cargo rack system.  Click on any of these items for more info.

Zippers:  Do you have trouble grasping those little zippers tabs when trying to open/close your plastic Jeep windows?  I sure do!  I've tried lubricating them with a spray lubricant suitable for vinyl zippers.  But the dirt that collects in the zipper defeats the lubricant within just a few days.  Instead, try carrying a small bar of soap in your glove box--the kind you get from hotels works great.  Soap makes an excellent zipper lubricant, and it won't attract dirt as much as a spray lubricant will.  In addition, try attaching a key ring (you probably have several lying around in your junk drawer) to each zipper tab, large enough to fit your finger through.  The combination of the soap lubricant and the easy-to-grip finger rings, most of your zipper woes will be history!